Many of the worlds oceans were colonized by European explorers as long as five centuries ago but the rugged, storm infested shores of the northeastern Pacific remained the domain of mostly land-based indigenous people until the introduction of the internal combustion engine.
Most of the harbors on the Oregon coast, on the northwestern seaboard of the US, are so inundated with on-shore weather that a fishing fleet requires real horsepower to reach fishing grounds. The older fleet of boats were of course made of wood and today seem quaint alongside the massive ships that dominate the industry.
Just two and three decades ago, family owned fishing vessels were the norm, but have been fast replaced by the huge steel behemoths that have redefined fishing as a factory endeavor. The tragic story of a dying way of life is told in the local papers as one after another of these old workhorses are put out to pasture or sink at their moorings.
The two closest harbors to my home are in Newport and Depoe Bay, Oregon. Neither of these ports were accessible by ships until breakwaters were built and the entrances dredged. In just three generations, we have witnessed the rise and fall of the fishing industry in this area due to inept management and greed, which makes many of us nostalgic for the days of the family fishing tradition and the hand built boats which made an honest life possible in this inhospitable climate.
photos by Jim Haron
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Marianne Toute Seule is an open, inshore fishing boat of a type which is typical to the Cote dOpale, the long sandy coast of the Pas De Calais region of France. These hand-lining boats are known as “flobarts”. A flobart is a shallow draft boat designed for beach launching. Thanks to the Marianne Toute Seules flat bottom and lifting daggerboard she could be easily sailed up onto the beach at Berck and left to dry out on the tide, an essential feature, as, like other seaside settlements on the Cote dOpale, the town has no harbour.
(photo above : www.berckpatrimoine.info)
Modern versions of the traditional flobart design can still be seen in these parts, even though few boats are now launched and landed from the beach in this way, and, of course, the modern versions are now usually built in GRP. The design has been adapted, too, to suit propulsion by modern reliable diesel motors, so it is only tradition, and not the need for sails, oars, daggerboards and rowing benches that now dictates the look of the regions open inshore fishing vessels.
As the old sailing flobarts were rapidly disappearing, the town of Berck decided in 1992 to rebuild this old "flobart Berckois" (boats varied slightly in design from one town to another) and to make her available for demonstration cruises and for use as a symbol of the towns maritime history and tradition. That same year the restored Marianne Toute Seule was awarded first prize in the “French Coastal Boats” division at the Brest International Festival of the Sea.
Marianne Toute Seule is clinker built with elm planking traditionally fastened with clenched nails. Although only 5.70m on deck, her long bowsprit and bumpkin enable her to carry an impressive 40m² cloud of sail, divided between her standing lug main and mizzen sails, and the jib flown from her long bowsprit. The bowsprit and bumpkin can be withdrawn and stowed inside the boat when not in use.
(photo www.berck-leblog.com/)
Alternative propulsion was by 4 oars which were poked through ports in her topsides – but Marianne does now have a diesel!
Marianne Toute Seule has recently returned from another major refurbishment, and can normally be seen at her berth at the tiny port of La Madelon, near Berck, on the River Authie estuary. From here she makes a number of demonstration outings during the months of May June, July and August each year, taking groups of up to 8 tourists, students, birdwatchers or wildlife enthusiasts out into the Authie Bay for a close-up view of the birdlife, seal colonies and shifting sandbanks.
The boats curious name comes from a famous character in 19th century Berck, who was instrumental in the towns development as a centre for medical treatment and convalescence. In the 1850s a grieving widow, Marianne, offered sick children a chance of a seaside cure in the fishing port of Berck. Her husband, a local doctor, and 4 children had died in a cholera epidemic, hence the soubriquet “Toute Seule” ("Marianne all alone"). Soon it was noticed that children sent to Berck seemed to recover more quickly - especially those with bone diseases like rickets.
Encouraged by the results, doctors began to prescribe the sea air and sea-bathing of Berck for all sorts of other sickness and disability. In 1869, Napoleon IIIs wife, Empress Eugénie, opened the big Maritime Hospital which is still a landmark on the Berck seafront. Other medical institutes followed, and the town expanded from 2,000 inhabitants to 11,600 by 1911. It had trams, a theatre, running water, electricity and telephones - all the facilities of a thriving seaside resort.
Links:
Berck Patrimoine
Berck-leblog
To book a trip on Marianne Toute Seule, call Nicole Froissart (who speaks perfect English) on 0033 (0)3 21 81 11 02
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In the grand tradition of VisionQuest/ManQuest2010 (here and here), and BroVenture2011 (Days 1+2 and 3+4), I bring to you BIL(brother-in-law)Trek2012!
IAZ,P, myself, and my brother-in-law Count Gregoire de Frontenac boldly drove forth to the wonderful world of Blue Hill Bay, Maine.
Count Gregoire de Frontenac
We went to Brooklin, to be exact, to enjoy a leisurely circumnavigation of Swan Island with some potential exploring in the Deer Isle Thoroughfare. I promised Gregoire bald eagles and starry nights, fast heart-pounding broad reaches, and leathery tanned skin! I promised adventure and riches and a story to last a lifetime. I promised a Goat Island Skiff experience, an IAZ,P adventure!
What I neglected to promise Count Gregoire de Frontenac, however, was the glories of a gigantic low pressure system that was going to park itself over Maine for two days. Oops. So much for my budding meteorological skills.
"Hi, my name is Mr. Twirly and Im going to rain on your parade, you buffoon."
A few disclaimers. We spent our time on privately-owned islands along the Maine Island Trail that are available to MITA members and described in the guidebook. It is requested to not publicly blather about such islands with respect to the islandowner. I will honor this request. As I have a done before and will do now, I highly encourage the intrepid reader who is interested in these waters to become a member at MITA. It is not expensive and it pays for itself immediately. It is a worthy organization for a worthy cause.
I present, with humbleness, BILTrek2012:
Peace. Notice lack of houses anywhere. Quiet.
Fickle winds started us off the public launch at Brooklin. I carefully ghosted out of the harbor, and once out in the bay we started to scoot along-- just barely. The boat was heavily laden with the two of us, gear, food, and water for five days and winds ere light. We made good time, all things considered to our first island. That was the last of the sun. In came the fog.
15 minutes later after "peace." No joke.
After dinner, we went to bed. Around midnight, it started to rain.
And rain.
And rain.
Out came the WX radio. Thunderstorms on their way. Flashes through the tent. 2-3" of rain per hour. Rumbles in the distance. I struck IAZ,Ps mast/lightning rod. Flash flood watches throughout Maine. The wind came up and started folding over Count Gregoire de Frontenacs tent. My tent was in the lee, so I thought it was quite peaceful. We skippers need to stay well rested and dry to make good decisions.
Gregoires tent blowing in from the wind. Wet. Rain seeping through the seams.
IAZ,P with mast down
Stoic Captain...? Feelings of foolishness lurking underneath stone cold face.
By the next morning Count Gregoire de Frontenac started to complain that his sleeping bag was sponging rain water that had finally started to work itself through the saturated seams of his tent. The weather forecast was calling for continued heavy rain the entire second day. There was going to be no hope of drying out for at least another 24 hours, and who knew what would come next. We were exposed. There were multiple factors to take into account, but most signs were pointing to an easy escape or a hard and cold and wet day. With the fog lifted for a few minutes, I took a compass bearing towards Brooklin and we rapidly broke down the tent, and sailed back to the boat ramp.
We had a good wind pushing us along, and we passed some lobstermen who gave us energetic waves and smiles as we blew through some chop in the pouring rain. To them we probably looked like we were off on an adventure as opposed to turning back around... I waved back. Lobstermen in Maine have always waved at IAZ,P. Better keep up the impression that we are a salty bunch too.
Romantic second night camping location. IAZ,P loved this. (sarcasm) Count Gregoire de Frontenac observing.
Drying tents. Why not?
Camping in a hotel room. Talk about sand and wetness. That chart book? Pissing water.
On day three with improving skies, we drove back to Brooklin, to start again!
This is a historic picture for blatantly obvious reasons. Take note.
We repeated the loading of IAZ,P for the second time in as many days, and sailed forth!
This is the "all-tides" gravel ramp at Brooklin. My compact 2W sedan is not going to make it back up this at low tide. Note fenders for rolling IAZ,P down to the water after pushing her off the trailer. World-famous Eggomoggin Reach in the background.
Sailing out. Cute Maine Island. What dangers lurk around its waters?
Count Gregoire de Frontenac navigating and keeping us safe from said dangers.
I just like this island.
I had a plan, and that was to head to a supposed Island of Paradise and salvage what we could of our trip. We didnt know what we were going to find. We didnt know if it was going to work. We didnt know if people would already be camped in its limited space.
And then, we turned to the corner into the small harbor.
Thats right.
Splashing into the crystal clear water on the beach, we decided that there was no further reason for exploration anywhere else. Day three was henceforth spent relaxing in the sun warmed harbor, circumnavigating the island at low tide, and napping.
Camp. Gregoire up on the hill, Im closer to the boat.
Count Gregoire de Frontenac posing with IAZ,P
View
Trees and what-was-once-tree communing
Count Gregoire de Frontenac bathing. This aint no damp breezy castle no mores, this be real saltiness!
The beach/bathtub dries out
Further and further the water falls
Officially stuck for the night. Were not going anywhere for another 6hrs at least. And then it will be dark.
Legal fire below high-tide mark
The night went smooth. A few showers passed, but nothing of any consequence. The bioluminescence was spectacular. The next morning, however, dawned with calm/calm/calm winds and an overcast. The tide was on the flood, and I wanted to be sure to meet it as soon as possible and make the most of it, because there would be no sailing that day, and it would be a long row back to the car.
Calm and mist. Woe.
Waiting for the tide
It was a long row back to the car, and a longer ride back home. BILTrek did not have booming reaches, midnight collisions with rocks, spirited discussions about spear-gun safety, anchors lost overboard, or encounters with sirens. However, we had a decent relaxing time, saw WoodenBoat, and discovered an absolute gem of an island for future visitation. Every trip with IAZ,P brings something different, why not some relax for once?
Fair winds, intrepid reader.
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Savannah - Keith Gemmells Miura, snapped during a H.B.Y.C. Club Race
Early Nebe Advert for the Miura
I think I can say the Miura remains one of South Africa’s favourite yachts, and one of the most successful designs to come out of this country. . . At just over 30 long, it is an incredible allrounder, for it seaworthiness, seakindliness, general performance and cruising abilities.
I have only heard praise for the Miura, from all the right people. I once heard the Miura being described as the VW Beetle of the oceans – it is solid, goes anywhere, inexpensive, and quite round! It is however relatively more sophisticated than a Beetle I have to say. The name Miura derives from the Spanish word for “fighting bull” as I understand – Berckemeyer named several boats with Spanish names originally.
The Miuras were designed by Oswald Berkemeyer, his second boat after the Flamenca 25, (with which it shares some DNA), in the late 70s. I am not sure what the design objective was exactly – but it yielded a beautiful small yacht, inexpensive and simple, capable of sailing anywhere, and rugged as they come. They were designed for GRP production, and more that 250 were built, the majority right here in Hout Bay by Nebe. There are three Miuras in the Hout Bay Marina –Tenacity (2 x circumnavigations), Wings (1 circumnavigation), and Savannah (unknown). The Miura is a strong contender for the argument of which class of yacht has the most circumnavigations . . .
Overall a Miura is 30.5’. Displacement around 4700 kgs gives it a moderate displacement by modern standards. Underbody shows a swept fin keel, and a skeg-hung rudder with tiller steering. The single-spreader mast is relatively low, and the Miura carries most of its power in a large genoa, with smallish mainsail. They perform amazingly well upwind and in fresh to strong winds, a bit sluggish in light airs though. The most distinguishing feature of the Miura is the pronounced tumblehome evident at the beam. This gives it loads of strength, a good IoR rating apparently, and loads of cabin room. The swept up canoe stern makes it completely unable to plane, and therefore not great downwind speed, but a very good sea boat nevertheless.The late great Bertie Reed campaigned several Miuras in local offshore races with some suprising results.Reed held the overall record record from Cape Town to St Helena and back for many years in a Miura.
Berckemeyer lived in Cape Town in the 70s – at a time when racing classes were dominated by van de Stadt designs – viz. The RCOD and the Buccaneer for example, and many others. At that time, van de Stadt was already a legend in yacht design circles – sometimes known as the “S&S of Europe”! – and his modern design concepts of fin keels and spade rudders were still quite leading edge. GRP was also a brand new idea - so when Berckemeyer decided to design something new to compete with the Stadt boats, well he must have been pretty confident. At the time, the Miura was a radical looking boat – the roundness of it, the full beams with pronounced tumblehome, the swept fin keel, large Genoa were all quite novel then. How such a round boat would compete with the likes of an RCOD with similar waterline remained to be seen.In fact it outperforms the RCOD by a small margin – while carrying twice the weight , and with far more room. According to the RCYC database of club ratings, Miuras sail off a club handicap of 0.935, while RCODs sail of a club handicap of 0.91, for example.
In the Hout Bay Yacht Club, the Miura “Savannah” is actively raced by skipper Keith Gemell, often short or single-handed, in any conditions.
The Miura went on to become the most popular keel boat in South Africa for many years – I guess there are still more Miuras in South Africa than any other class of keelboats? Miuras became the keelboat of choice for Sailing Schools, first time keelboat owners, and people wanting to do the Cape to Rio on a budget. Not to mention those who wanted to circumnavigate, or even round the Horn. The Miura class remains quite active, and still often races as a class. Long live the Miura!
Vital Statistics LOA 31 LWL 28 * Beam 10 Draft (Laden 6) * Displacement 10700 lbs * Capsize screening formula 1.8 (good) * Sail Area / Displacement 14.8 (a bit under canvassed) * Displacement / Length 218 (moderate) * Max Hull Speed 7.1 kts
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